Ford Falcon And Territory Second Hand Steering Columns

Second-Hand Ford Falcon & Territory Steering Columns: Why They Are a Risky Gamble

A Bit Of History

Ford has used the same ignition switch design going all the way back to the early falcon’s in the 60’s and even some American made Mustangs. When things were manufactured in Australia they reduced design changes to limit the costs on re-tooling at the factory and for many years they never had problems with the ignition switch. In fact BOSCH actually made the switches which Ford assembled inside the steering column locked away with steal pins. Everyone was happy.

Then as companies do over time they try to cut costs using different materials etc. So when it came to the switch failing it had a massive impact, not just for the sheer volume of vehicles mate 400,000+ but the fact they only had a steering column as the only part to provide customers to fix this problem. The industry has since been on auto pilot with their go to fix by using all that’s available now being a second hand steering column now Ford no longer produce new parts.

Why Does The Ignition Switch Fail?

There are many believe that the ignition switch fails simply because at the factory they didn’t peen over the edges enough to hold the switch in. We know this isn’t true and things just don’t “fall apart”. The spring that returns the key from the start positions grinds down the metal of the small tab its bounces off, once this starts the switch then twists more in an outward direction now its operating at a different angle and height.

Over time this outwards pressure is too much for the metal and the peened over edges simply flatten out and give way or the spring sheers off the tab and the return spring stops operating. So even if you get a second hand column this damage is already there on every model Falcon all be it every series has a different cast metal which wears differently over time.

Point is the problem is so tiny its easily overlooked when just observing the issue, with over 10 years experience we can assure you that anything produced from the Ford factory will fail regardless of whatever “reconditioning” has occurred.

Costs Of A Second Hand Column In Today’s Market

Brand new columns retailed at a trade price around the $1,150 mark not including any retail mark up and then the labour to install it, this then bumped the total installed price up towards $2,500+ back in the day.  Even now the odd retailers like REPCO may have some old/new stock around in some remote town and customers are getting quotes in excess of $3,000. 

Wreckers on the other hand have been taking advantage of this market for years and sold “reconditioned” steering columns at some what inflated prices.  Some as much as $600+ just for a second hand as is column with no idea on the history or condition of the ignition switch.  Over the past 5 or so years we’ve seen the price come down dramatically as competition increased and more wanted to get in on the action and roughly $225-500 is the going rate plus installation cost.  Even today we hear of quotes between $600-$1100 for a second hand steering column replacement.

Why Choose Us vs A Second Hand Steering Column

So what’s so bad about a second hand steering column? Well exactly that second hand with no history or idea how the switch has been failing.  Some sell a “reconditioned” steering column with new bearings and other parts replaced which in all honestly is just probably not even necessary to replace in the first place.  When have you ever heard of getting the bearings replaced in a steering column for a Falcon?  Never.  Just clever marketing to create a product that has been overhauled with little to no impact on the operation.

Some of the methods now used to “recondition” an ignition switch:

Failed Ford ignition switch repair using a screw

* Just put it back together as is
* Find an older model pre-2000’s and splice the wiring loom and ignition switch onto the affected model
* Drill out the broken return spring tab and install a roll pin
* Even worse lately we’ve seen them drill out the broken return spring tab then insert a screw that is then grinded down to replace the return spring tab

Reconditioned Ford Falcon steering column comparison showing why used parts still fail

All these are destined to fail, the ignition switch has been designed with very small tolerances in relation to how it operates and even the slights anomaly such as the spring operating 0.25mm higher due to it catching on a poorly machined surface such as a grinded down screw creates even more  problems than the factory failures. 

Given the unknown nature of the condition it’s pretty hit and miss on how well they last, some people don’t have a problem for many years others have had 3 steering columns replaced in as many years.  Very few wreckers provide guarantees these days and reconditioned columns maybe 8-12 months which is why most mechanics hate gambling on the parts hoping they don’t see the customer in 12 months time with the same issue again or worse find out yet again they are stuck at a shopping centre calling the tow truck.

But lets face it Ford actually made a really good vehicle in regards to engine quality and durability if maintained.  Due to the sheer numbers sold they won’t be going away anytime soon and now the famous “Barra” engine has been cemented as a cult classic with many years of reliability to come with plenty of parts and aftermarket upgrades available. There was a reason the taxi industry loved these cars, reliable and capable of 1,000,000km’s. 

Many will survive another 20+ years and you’d hardly notice the difference in drivability so like most things fix it once and fix it properly.

If you tried all the above and your Ford is doing any or all of this?

The key turns and feels normal, but the engine won’t crank?

The dash lights flicker or stay on after the key is out?

The key feels “limp” or spins 360 degrees without resistance?

You have to “jiggle” the key to get the accessories to turn on or start the car?

The car just turns itself off after starting and you have to hold the key to keep it running?

If yes, your ignition switch has likely failed. This is an electrical fault, not a lock/key issue. Call me and I can confirm the diagnosis over the phone in 2 minutes.
We specialise in both the 2002-2008 BA/BF Series and the 2008-2018 FG Series

Ford Falcon & Territory Starting Problems: 7 Things to Check Before Calling a Mechanic

Onsite Ford Falcon and Territory ignition switch repair specialist South East Queensland

Ford Falcon & Territory Starting Problems: 7 Things to Check Before Calling a Mechanic

There are a multitude of reason why your car won’t start mysteriously without warning and we’ll go through some of the other common problems and checks to do that aren’t related to an ignition switch failure which will stop you from starting the vehicle.

If you have already gone through all the symptoms listed here then try the following, it might get you going again with some simple fixes.  Anything beyond this is going to require a mechanic to investigate further.

1. Check the car is in park “P”

This might sound silly however some problems with gearboxes can arise where the selector doesn’t go into park properly or at all.  It will either show it’s in reverse “R” still or may show its in park “P” but not fully engaged.  Try putting the car in neutral “N” and see if this works. This will be a problem with the gear box linkages on the gear box or in the shifter itself and not an ignition switch problem.

Check the gears are changing, there is a linkage on the front of the gearbox which is known to break and you won’t be able to change gears.  Its a simple fix by installing a bolt, however if you are stuck on the side of the road somewhere even a cable tie will get you by and at least get the car started and home again.

2. Poor Connection Of The Starter Motor Signalling Cable (Black Clip On Wire)

If the car still doesn’t start with no cranking of the starter motor and you are getting lights on the dash but also see an engine warning light and/or a battery symbol, check the black cable connected to the starter motor. A simple way to test is place your finger on top of the start motor relay in the engine bay fuse box and try start the car, if you can feel the relay pulse then that’s good news that its not an ignition switch problem and something else is preventing the relay from activating properly.

For some reason either from previous work done or vibrations from the motor this cable can become lose causing intermittent connections or just an accumulation of dust over time creates a poor connection.  It’s a little hard to access if you have an XR6 or XR8 and may need to jack the front of the car, the start motor is behind the front passenger wheel under the manifold and you’ll see a big thick red cable and small black cable attached. 

Simply disconnect the black cable and reconnect.

3. Battery vs. Starter Motor: The Sound Test

If you hear the engine trying to crank over and then the starter motor make a loud ticking sound then this is likely just a flat battery. Ford Falcon and Territory starter motors are power hungry beasts and anything less than about 11.7v isn’t going to be enough to kick the starter motor over. Less than 6v and you won’t even have the km travelled on the dash and the battery is really dead.

4. Starter Motor Failure

If the engine doesn’t crank over and there is no engine or battery symbol on the dash lights then it could be a failed starter motor.  They are known to either seize up or wear the bushes inside.  A auto electrician, mobile mechanic or RACQ can test the starter motor before you go down the track of replacing it.  It’s also worth checking the starter motor, ignition and accessories relays are still functioning.

You can also test a starter motor yourself with a little bit of youtube research.

5. Is The Immobiliser Activated

The immobiliser is always active with a small red hand on the dash flashing slowly every few seconds on and off, once the car starts it will check the code on the key transponder and it turns off. If you see this little red hand flashing really fast, multiple times a second then this means the immobiliser has actually been triggered either by using a key that isn’t coded to the vehicle or using a key where the transponder has failed.

This is not an ignition switch problem this is an issue with the key and code transponder chip. More common with after market keys where the transponder has dislodged inside the key and not pointing the right direction or it has simply failed.

6. Terminal Steering Column Failure

If you can see the ignition switch is still together but your key still spins 360 loosely, in very rare circumstances there is a pin inside the steering column that links the key/barrel to the ignition switch that fails. The head of this pin can snap off which make the key spin freely when turning it.  This can be misdiagnosed as an ignition switch failure without taking the cowl off and inspecting the ignition switch to see if its still intact. 

This is terminal and will require a new steering column. This is usually caused by someone who has taken the key/lock mechanism out trying to fix an ignition switch problem and having no idea what they are doing then start using brute force to fix things.

Learn more about why buying a second-hand steering column is a risky gamble here.

7. Final Warning Do Not Remove The Key & Barrel/Lock – If You Do And Can’t Get It Back In We Can Help You

Sealed inside the steering column is a somewhat crude anti theft mechanism alongside the steering wheel lock which is all spring loaded in a particular way when assembled at the factory then sealed with a copper plate. If you remove the key & barrel/lock and accidentally or unknowingly move the steering wheel it will pop the spring loaded locator pin out of position and you won’t be able to put the barrel/lock back in.

Do not try and fix this yourself, brute force is your enemy here. We can fix this issue with our expertise on resetting the springs and re-aligning the locator pin for the key/barrel to go back in. You will NOT get this service anywhere else, not even locksmiths do this work. This was put together at the factory and is generally never touched or worked on and only caused by someone messing with it.

This is not how to fix a faulty ignition switch that spins 360.

If you tried all the above and your Ford is doing any or all of this?

The key turns and feels normal, but the engine won’t crank?

The dash lights flicker or stay on after the key is out?

The key feels “limp” or spins 360 degrees without resistance?

You have to “jiggle” the key to get the accessories to turn on or start the car?

The car just turns itself off after starting and you have to hold the key to keep it running?

If yes, your ignition switch has likely failed. This is an electrical fault, not a lock/key issue. Call me and I can confirm the diagnosis over the phone in 2 minutes.
We specialise in both the 2002-2008 BA/BF Series and the 2008-2018 FG Series

The problem with Ford Falcon Ignition Switches from 2002-2008 BA/BF Series

Why Ford BA & BF Falcon Ignition Switches Fail (And How to Fix It Permanently)

For many years going back as far as the late 1960’s Ford has used the same design for their ignition switches.  Albeit with minor differences in the quality of materials used for casting the main housing of the switch.

The Difference Between Factory Cast and Billet Aluminium

Upgraded CNC billet aluminium Ford ignition housing vs brittle factory cast metal housing

The housing on the left is the billet aluminium housing CNC made by engineers in Melbourne and the one on the right is the factory cast housing used by Ford.  Over the years Ford & BOSCH who made the ignition switch and sent to Ford to assemble into the steering column at the factory has used a slightly differed in the casting material used which can physically be noticed when squeezing the metal and working with it.

In the image above, you can see the difference. On the left is our CNC-machined billet aluminium housing made right here in Melbourne. On the right is the original factory-cast housing. Over time, the factory metal becomes brittle—much like sandstone—and eventually crumbles under the pressure of the internal return spring. 

Internal Ford ignition switch spring failure causing key return issues in BA BF Falcon

Unfortunately the cast material deteriorates much like sand stone over the years in which the spring that returns the key after starting chips away at the metal pieces its attached to.  The spring pictured inside the white plastic part will either break off the metal tab or twist the whole part putting pressure on the wiring loom attached to it forcing it to fall apart.  Again the cast metal material isn’t strong enough to hold the switch together whilst the internals are twisting once the spring has worn away on the switch housing.

Failure Rates

The failure rate is very unpredictable as to when the ignition switch will fail but we can assure the failure rate is 100% and it will eventually happen. We’ve worked on vehicles with 60,000km and others with 600,000km+.  There seems to be no correlation between the condition of the ignition switch and the functionality of the key and barrel mechanism since the ignition switch is a spring loaded system floating on ball bearings.  It ultimately depends on how the spring chips away and twists inside the switch year after year.

Most Common Ignition Switch Failures

Summer time seems to be the biggest trigger for failure with a large percentage falling apart mostly due to the grease melting inside the switch and lubricating the edges allowing for the wiring loom to wriggle loose. Metal will also expand and contract under extreme heat, some days I’ve actually had burn marks on my arm from touching a scolding hot steering column in the midst of summer.  There will often be no indication something is wrong when you jump in the car, we have many customers arrive at the shops etc. come back to their car and its fallen apart without warning.

If you are fortunate enough that the spring return stops working and doesn’t return to the accessories position after starting then do yourself a favour and get it fixed as soon as possible.  It could be anywhere from days or years away before it falls apart but when it does you’ll be stuck unable to turn off or turn on the car.  We know from experience but without physically looking at it then its a complete gamble on how long it will last.

Usually by this stage the switch has failed in multiple ways, already half fallen apart and the spring return tab well worn.  It’s just a matter of which one will fail first and how long until it completely falls apart.

The Warning Sign: Failed Spring Return

If your key no longer ‘springs back’ to the accessories position after you start the car, you are on borrowed time. This is the first sign that the metal tabs inside the housing have snapped. It might last days, or it might last months, but eventually, the switch will collapse, leaving you unable to turn the car on—or off.

More Information

Check out our post for some trouble shooting tips Ford Falcon & Territory Starting Problems: 7 Things to Check Before Calling a Mechanic or about Second-Hand Ford Falcon & Territory Steering Columns: Why They Are a Risky Gamble

Don’t Tow It – Fix It Onsite

Replacing a steering column is expensive and often unnecessary. We specialise in rebuilding the ignition switch using the high-quality CNC billet aluminium housings shown above.

  • No new keys needed (Keep your originals)
  • No towing required (We come to your home or work)
  • Lifetime Guarantee On the New Ignition Switch Housing (Better than factory cast metal)

Ford Falcon & Territory Ignition DIY Fixes

Ford Falcon & Territory Ignition DIY Fixes: Why YouTube Fixes Can Cost You More

In the age of the internet there is a wealth of knowledge shared however this can lead to some very questionable sources of information with the “just do this” attitude. The “just do this” attitude is what gives people the false impression it’s easy and there is a reason we chose to specialise for this problem.  With regards to this issue of fixing an ignition switch we’ve seen just about every fix possible by the DIY community and Youtube videos, we’ve seen them because they all fail in the end.

Some of the more common DIY repairs:

  • Put it back together and put some cable ties on it to hold it together
  • Put it back together and apply glue to stop if falling apart again
  • Obtain another switch from a steering column and cut off the faulty one and splice the wires attaching the replacement
  • Drill a hole in the switch and install a piece of wire or a roll pin to replace the piece of metal broken off from the spring
  • Rewire and splice a later FG Series falcon ignition switch or an older one from earlier Falcon’s
Dangerous DIY Ford ignition switch repair combo using a tech screw and cable tie
Dangerous DIY Ford ignition switch repair using a push button start to bypass the ignition switch

Some of the more creative DIY repairs:

  • Using a roofing screw and cable tie for good measure to hold it in
  • Insert a screw under the switch and filing it down smooth for the spring to work off
  • Installing a push button to bypass the ignition switch from various switches
  • One poor customer paid an auto electrician to essentially hot wire the car and teaching the customer what to do just leaving exposed wires between their legs
Dangerous DIY Ford ignition switch repair using glue
Dangerous DIY Ford ignition switch repair using cable ties
DIY Ford ignition switch repair using metal braces and screws

Whilst these may work they are more often than not a short term fix to get you going cheaply it’s likely to fail again or force the spring to pop out of its housing causing more issues.  If you haven’t read our post on what’s wrong with the ignition switch post check it out here

The main problem with putting it back together is the condition of the metal where the spring returns the key back to accessories from the start position, whilst we are talking about a surface area of only a few millimetres it has a massive impact on the normal operation of the switch.  Even if you get it back together the spring is still going to be twisting as it mounts to the deteriorating lug which it will inevitably fall apart again at some point or it will break off as the best case scenario.

The second biggest problem is the condition of the cast metal housing, unfortunately it is a very brittle material which splits and tears quite easily which we can see in the picture here.  Like most metals once it’s been worked it doesn’t retain anywhere near the structure it had before so the risk of it falling apart again over time is likely.

Brute Force Isn’t The Solution

One of the biggest risks of putting it back together is breaking the wiring loom plate, this is Bakelite material and extremely fragile.  If you break this then you’ve just made an easy problem to fix into a much harder one. I don’t know how many times I’ve been told it just fell apart like that whilst the owner swears they did nothing but take out the screws. This only happens because you force it together and you can’t see the locator pin for the wiring loom on the inside of the switch housing rim. For the sake of everyone’s sanity brute force rarely fixes the problem properly without causing further damage.

Should you happen to be reading this after the fact and looking at this image wondering where the hell I can get one of those, please call us we can usually source them at an additional cost to supply when we install a new ignition switch. We don’t sell wiring looms on their own, unfortunately its a lot of effort to track down and sources these so we only supply them when installing onsite.

Broken Ford ignition wiring loom plate caused by failed DIY repair

More Information

Check out our post for some trouble shooting tips Ford Falcon & Territory Starting Problems: 7 Things to Check Before Calling a Mechanic or about Second-Hand Ford Falcon & Territory Steering Columns: Why They Are a Risky Gamble

Save Your Steering Column – Get it Fixed Properly

Don’t gamble with your car’s reliability. A ‘short-term’ fix often results in getting stuck at a shopping center or, worse, having your car fail while driving. DIY is inexpensive for some and extremely expensive for others when it all goes wrong.

We specialise in rebuilding the ignition switch using the high-quality new parts.

  • No new keys needed (Keep your originals)
  • No towing required (We come to your home or work)
  • Lifetime Guarantee On the New Ignition Switch Housing (Better than factory cast metal)